On the summit morning, we set off at 520am. It was a nice warmish
(for that altitude) day, no wind, blue skies and some sunshine. We took
the normal route via the North Face (Heinrich Harrer route). After a
45-50min hike, we got to the the start of the fixed rope. Thereafter, we
would jumar all the way up to the summit, crossing multiple ridges and
an exciting tyrolean traverse. The rock surface was extremely rough and
sharp, chiselled by the weather, making for very good climbing traction
(and also good scratches and cuts on those gloves and fancy gear). The
rock walls were steep and angular, and became a lot more jagged and
looked like serrated saws nearer the summit.
Soon we came up to
the summit ridge, where we would take another 1-2h to complete the
ascent. There were 2-3 parts where there was a gap in the ridge, and
which was too far to jump across. Imagine the ridge, with unsurvivable
steep drops on both sides. Getting from Point A to B required scrambling
down to a "standalone" mid-point, and jump/step-crawl up the other
side. A fairly easy big step for long-limbed folks, but a challenging
small jump for shorter climbers like me. Step meant one foot still in
contact with the surface. Jump meant both feet off. Our guide, Josh,
belayed me down, and I had to gingerly place one foot to the very edge
in order to make that jump. A distance that one would not even bat an
eyelid in normal life quickly morphed into a gaping hole with silent
voids on all sides. My imagination was definitely in overdrive. I was
quite paralysed there for a few seconds, but finally told myself that I
had to move. Took a deep breath and jumped, to cheers from behind (or
everyone would be stuck). 😬 I did not even want to think of the return climb down...
We got to the highlight of the climb - the famous tyrolean traverse.
Wikipedia defines it as "a method of crossing through free space between
two high points on a rope without a hanging cart or cart equivalent".
Think action movies where the hero arm-hangs or walks across a
tightrope... The old tyrolean traverse was indeed for hanging upside
down and using arms to pull oneself across. The new setup that we used
comprised three steel wires; two wires for the right and left hands into
which we clipped our locking carabiners, and the third for walking
across one foot in front of the other. After all the excitement and
YouTube videos, the tyrolean traverse turned out to be quite stable,
super cool experience!
A couple more palpitating gaps and deep
breaths on the knife-like ridges, we finally reached the summit base. A
short scramble took us to the shiny sign proclaiming the summit of
Carstensz Pyramind (4,884m). Whoosh! 11:37am, slightly over 6h, on 13 Aug 2018. The
climbing company made personalised summit banners for each climber, and
with my large SGP flag, it was a busy affair getting the summit pic
organised in the fluttering wind. We were very lucky to have good
weather throughout the entire climb, and could even see basecamp from
the summit.
In theory, the descent should be somewhat faster. In
reality, not a lot. We had to go through all those scary gaps again,
albeit they felt easier on the second attempt. Where I had jumped down
across a gap, I now had to climb up, and vice-versa. Gilles went in
front of me and Josh took the rear, helping me with a pull or push at
times. At one point, they were giving me directions on where to place my
hands and feet, but based on their heights. 😂
In the end, I found my own hand/ footholds and scrambled up. Once
passed the jagged ridges and tyrolean traverse, it was a lot of
rappelling over the steep walls. Lean back, legs out, go, switch over
anchor points, repeat. Endless times. Some of the newer ropes were so
stiff that I did not lower an inch even when I bounced in my seat
harness or released the locking rope. After quite an eternity, we
reached the last of the fixed ropes (whew!) and our basecamp tents were
right ahead. Mission accomplished, up and back down safely, in perfect
weather! 😊
Now, we pray hard for a chance to fly out of basecamp tomorrow. It was
another sleepless restless night of tossing in my sleeping bag. At 6am,
the commotion outside my tent suggested that the heli was coming in with
the remaining three members of our team, and to fly the three from the
previous expedition out. That was the earliest takeoff the pilot had
made in the past week! Fingers crossed tightly for him to make a second
trip and take us out too. Meanwhile, our three teammates set off for
their summit attempt. Our prayers were answered and all of us got back
to Timika and caught our connecting flights to Bali that same morning.
We also later got news that everyone else had summited and returned to
BC. 🙏
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